Uptown funk: 24 hours on the Upper West Side

Start strong at Barney Greengrass, the self-styled ‘sturgeon king’ of the Upper West Side. This Amsterdam Avenue stalwart, a tiny appetizing store, deli and restaurant specializing in (yup, you guessed it) fish has been gently weaving its way into the city’s fabric for nearly a century. It’s no exaggeration to say it’s a New York foodie institution on a par with Chelsea Market and Katz’s Deli. Slide into a small table beneath the signature green-and-gold awning and order sturgeon scrambled with eggs and onion sturgeon or a lightly toasted bagel layered with silky Nova Scotia salmon. Inside, walls lined with photographs tell stories that span generations and locals swap gossip over steaming cups of coffee, lovingly wrapped packets of salty lox tucked beneath their arms. I love the old-school New York vibe of the place, and its unfussy but always friendly service. It’s also in pole position to kick-start your Upper West Side adventure – a short walk into Central Park, then a straight shot south to the cultural heavyweight that is the American Museum of Natural History. 

Pro tip: Grab a giant black-and-white cookie for the road; you’ll thank yourself later when the mid-morning snack craving hits. No time to linger over breakfast? Save Barney’s for another day and grab a bagel to go from H&H on Columbus Avenue instead.

Pro-tip #2: Ride the subway south to West 56th Street, where bike rentals from Unlimited biking come loaded on The New York Pass. Pick up your wheels for an easier, breezier day of sightseeing around Central Park – it’s about a 10-minute ride back up to the AMNH.

We arrive at the mighty AMNH just as it throws its doors open, which – as is the case with many of NYC’s most popular attractions – is usually the best time to swing by if you want to dodge the crowds. Considered by many to contain the finest natural history collection in the world, the AMNH delivers wow moment after eye-popping wow moment. Park up at the bike racks out front and make a beeline for the fourth-floor Hall of Saurischian Dinosaurs, where the fearsome T.rex fossil is among the most complete you’ll see anywhere. There’s also an allosaurus feeding on its prey, the grinning skull of a velociraptor (shudder) and a set of 107-million-year-old dino footprints to goggle at. Size really does matter at the AMNH, where you can also lay eyes (and, in some cases, hands) on the world’s biggest meteorite (so heavy it has its own support struts sunk into the bedrock beneath Manhattan), the bling-tastic Star of India sapphire (only the largest known gem of its kind), the massive stump of a 1,300-year-old giant sequoia and a 500-pound clam shell so big you could just about squeeze inside it. The 28 lifelike dioramas on the second and third floors also merit your attention – their meticulously staged scenes of wild animals and early humans are (rightly) the envy of natural history museums the world over.

Pro-tip: A couple of hours here is about right to leave time for lunch, a meander through Central Park on your bike and a spot of late-afternoon culture before dinner.

It’s a little over five minutes’ ride back up to Columbus Avenue, where lunch comes courtesy of the mighty Jacob’s Pickles – yet another NYC foodie institution, thanks to its perfect combo of Southern-style comfort food, serious craft beer and – yep – pickles. You get house pickles with just about everything here, whether you’re sharing a jar of hot’n’sour cukes, chowing down on a hot chicken biscuit sandwich or smash burger, or experiencing the eye-watering kick of a signature spicy brine margarita. In classic Southern style, the portions lean generous here, so consider sharing a few starters and – oh go on then, if you insist – a plate of fried Oreos with homemade cream, if you don’t want to fall too hard into the post-lunch food coma. We’ve got a stack more sightseeing to do, after all. 

Pro-tip: If you’re keen to get straight to the Central Park action, you could stick at the AMNH and grab a quick panini or salad in one of its two cafés. You’re also a short ride from the park’s excellent Boathouse restaurant, where the menu is almost as tempting as the lake views. Or follow your nose to countless park kiosks hawking everything from waffles to grilled cheese and gelato. My top tip? Hit up an UWS deli like Whole Foods Market and enjoy your picnic al fresco on the Great Lawn.

If you haven’t already picked up your rental bike, go and do that right now. I’m often surprised by how much of Central Park’s 843 acres you can cover on two wheels in just a couple of hours. From Jacob’s Pickles, it’s easy to do a broad loop south, skimming the Jackie O Reservoir’s scenic western edge, crossing the Great Lawn and pausing for those essential photo ops at the bizarre fairytale folly that is Belvedere Castle (Disney costume optional), the swoonsome Bow Bridge, and silver-screen-star Bethesda Terrace, where you can recreate some of your favorite moments from The Avengers movies. Or, at least, the one that was filmed here. Pay your respects at the John Lennon memorial in Strawberry Fields or – if, like me, you’re just a big kid at heart – head a little further south for a spin on the old-school Central Park Carousel. Afterwards, you’re well positioned to take your pick from any one of NYC’s many cultural institutions, which we’ll come onto in just a moment, once you’ve got your breath back from all that pedaling.

Pro-tip: If you’re a New York newbie, you might be more comfortable doing your Central Park circuit with a guide. In which case, the New York Pass has just the thing for you. Included with the pass, this guided bike tour ticks off many of the park attractions I mentioned above, with the added bonus of expert commentary – you’re also less likely to get hopelessly lost). 

Pro-tip#2: If you did rent your own bike for the day, you’ll need to return it before your next stop – the bike rental store closes at 5PM.

It’s choose your own adventure time! Are you going to keep it Upper West Side with a trip to the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, or sneak off to the eastern edge of Central Park, where the mighty Metropolitan Museum of Art and Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum promise a double-hit of the planet’s finest gallery experiences.

Home of the New York Philharmonic, Metropolitan Opera, and New York City Ballet, the Lincoln Center sets a high bar for high culture in NYC. Join one of the regular tours to access the center’s prestigious venues with an expert guide who adds history and color to the whole campus. And, of course, you can always return to catch one of the world-class performances here in the evening (which, strangely enough, is precisely where our UWS schedule is headed).

Alternatively, make straight for the Guggenheim’s distinctive spiral exterior and step inside to be further wowed by visionary works of 20th- and 21st-century art by the likes of Picasso, Kandinsky, Koons, Basquiat, Bourgeois and more. Or, if you find yourself with a little more time on your hands post-Central-Park-cycle, consider tackling the frankly monolithic Met instead, with its extraordinary and expansive collections that run the gamut from bold American art (hello, John Singer Sargent!) to Renaissance masterpieces, delicate Asian ceramics and even ancient Egyptian temples.

Pro-tip: The Gugg would be my personal pick here. It’s more manageable than the Met when you’re on a timetable, doesn’t rely on potentially inconvenient tour timings like the Lincoln, and you can squeeze a very satisfying visit into less than two hours, starting at the top of the famous spiral and working your way down, admiring both art and architecture en route.

We’re heading back into the heart of the Upper West Side now for an easy dinner option that’s sociable, fun and full of flavor. Yep, a bit like the UWS itself. Located at Broadway/W 75th St, RedFarm really nails the brief, thanks to a dining room that walks the fine line between homestead charm and city polish, and a menu of Chinese dishes designed for sharing. Grab a spot on one of the long communal tables, beneath beamed ceilings and hanging plants, and get stuck right in. We’re talking playful signature faves like the sculpted Pac-Man shrimp dumplings, umami fried pork buns, and delicate steamed seabass in black bean sauce. Every cocktail here is worth a try but, unless you have a constitution of steel, you’ll likely want to stick to just one or two of them. But which to choose? My money’s on the sweet, rum-laced tropicalia of the Birds of Paradise, or the feisty double kick of the House Mule. Either way, you’re in for a fun evening.

Pro-tip: Nearby Café Luxembourg is a laid-back date-night alternative, bringing cool brasserie vibes to the Upper West Side via gleaming red-and-gold banquettes, fine French Champagne, and maybe the best steak frites this side of Central Park. Or, if you want to combine dinner with a jazz performance, rather than following our plan, somewhere like the storied Smoke Jazz & Supper Club on Broadway and 106th his all the right notes.

You’ll need to book tickets in advance for one of the late-evening performances (usually starting at 9PM) in the legendary Dizzy’s Club – and if you can’t guess who it’s named after well, you’ve probably come to the wrong place! It’s an intimate venue, seating around 140 guests. Candlelit tables set the mood, while a sleek wraparound bar mixes cool, jazz-themed cocktails (French Quarter Gin Fizz anyone?). Perhaps best of all, the floor-to-ceiling windows behind the stage frame delicious nighttime views of Columbs Circle and Central Park, turning the skyline into part of the show. The performances here, from modern freestyling to Latin jazz blowouts and classic torch singers, ain’t too shabby either. Past performers here include legendary drummer Roy Haynes, sax-master Charles MacPherson and Dizzy Gillespie protégé Jon Faddis: in other words, literal jazz royalty.

Pro-tip: You’re usually back on the street by 10.30 after a late show here. Plenty of time, that is, for one last nightcap before bed. Try the (very) nearby Empire Rooftop for a classic Manhattan and more of those stellar skyline views, or head a little further uptown where the Owl’s Tail delivers inventive craft cocktails that change with the seasons.

There’s not an absolutely enormous number of hotel options on the Upper West Side – Midtown pretty much has the monopoly here – but there are still plenty of solid options if you’re set on staying up here. Here are my three pickst…

• High-end: The Wallace. Fresh from a top-to-tail renovation, The Wallace brings plush, residential-style suites to West 76th Street. We’re talking spacious digs with marble bathrooms and tactile textiles, and a calm, art-forward lobby that comes on like a private lounge. A good pick if you’re in town for longer than a weekend and covet a little extra space to spread out after sightseeing.
• Mid-range: Hotel Beacon. A neighborhood fave on Broadway, Hotel Beacon’s rooms come with kitchenettes, lounge areas and big old windows that frame the city. It’s about as good a location as you’re likely to find if AMNH and the Lincoln Center top your list, and there are plenty of subway lines within striking distance to boot.
• Budget: Belnord Hotel. Tucked away on West 87th Street, Belnord keeps it simple: clean, compact rooms and friendly service at a wallet-friendly price. You’ll be steps from the 86th Street subway and Amsterdam Avenue’s restaurants, and a quick stroll to Central Park. It’s a smart pick if you plan to be out exploring for most of the day anyway.