Just a perfect day: 24 hours in Lower Manhattan

This FiDi favorite is walk-in only, so pitch up just before the doors open at 8AM if you want to snag yourself a table without the wait. Your reward for such an unholy early start? Take your pick: kimchi scrambled eggs, a breakfast burrito or (if you’re anything like me) the smoky pulled pork benedict, a full-throttle morning indulgence served with runny poached eggs, hollandaise and herb salad – add avocado and bacon for the win, and wash it all down with a frothing cup of joe.

I like to sit by the window here and watch FiDi wake up while I map out my day. But if you’re more the grab-and-go type (i.e. you got here too late to find a free table), Leo’s Bagels on Hanover Square is a great alternative for the classic everything bagel with scallion cream cheese. Either way, make sure to fuel yourself up to the point of gluttony: you’ve got a heck of a lot of walking ahead of you today and you’re going to need the energy. Thank me later.

From Hole in the Wall it’s a 20-minute walk (or hop the M15 bus) down to Battery Park and the Statue City Cruises ferry port. The definitive emblem of American freedom, the Statue of Liberty belongs right at the top of any NYC sightseeing list worth its salt, and that’s true whether you happen to be staying right here in Lower Manhattan or way up in the North Bronx. And ok sure, you can spot Lady Liberty from hundreds of vantage points around Manhattan: Brooklyn Bridge, the One World Observatory, the Empire State Building, and so on. But believe me when I say that nothing beats getting right up close – and this is the only excursion that delivers on that front. The Manhattan skyline unfolds behind you, gulls trace the wake, and Lady Liberty comes into focus fast. And it’s only then that you’ll truly appreciate the Green Goddess’s distinctive oxidized patina and, indeed, enormous size – the planet’s most recognizable statue stands a whopping 305 feet high from ground level to the tip of her famous torch.

I tend to favor a streamlined visit—snap photos from the promenade on Liberty Island, then continue to Ellis Island for exhibits that trace arrival stories of the ‘huddled masses’ and add real context to your New York experience. If you board at around 9:30AM, you’ll be back in Battery Park time for lunch, without the need to rush. Back on terra firma, hunger kicks in right on cue, and lunch awaits just a short stroll away on Stone Street’s storied cobbles.

The cobblestones, string lights and long communal tables of historic Stone Street make for a sociable (and mercifully traffic-free) alleyway for you and your crew. Last time I visited, I grabbed a perch at Adrienne’s Pizzabar and mainlined a classic ‘grandma’ square pie—a triple threat of juicy tomato, mozzarella and basil flavors with a kick of spicy soppressata topping a base so satisfying crisp and crunchy it should come with earplugs. But you could also go for Spanish tapas at Gran Via or go Mexican with hot wings, fresh guac and margaritas over at Mad Dog & Beans. Loosen your belt a notch for a post-feast meander through the Financial District. It’s choose your own adventure time: will it be a face-off with the Wall Street bull, a quiet moment of reflection in Trinity Churchyard, or a quick peep into the Revolution-era rooms at Fraunces Tavern Museum? In point of fact, you could tick off all three in a looping 20-minute walk via Wall Street, Broadway and Broad Street, before shooting straight down Pearl Street to the next stop on our 24-hour tour of Lower Manhattan…

Not just a jumping-off point for the islands, The Battery’s 25 lush acres beg further exploration. Grab a coffee from Joe’s in the Beaux-Arts Battery Maritime Building, then find a garden path to follow to, well, wherever it happens to lead. I like to find a bench on the esplanade and allow myself to become hypnotized by the constant cavalcade of ferries, freighters, tugboats and pleasure cruisers. If you’re traveling with kids (or indeed just want to reconnect with your inner eight-year-old), be sure to stop by the whimsical, dreamlike and downright delightful SeaGlass Carousel, where you’ll ride inside monumental shimmering fish that swish and swirl their way through a magical sound-and-light show. It’s a relaxing and slightly surreal reset ahead of the rest of your day.

If there’s a better place than the South Street Seaport Museum for diving into New York’s origin story, I’ve yet to find it. I love how its very location – all cobblestone alleys, salty sea air and the bustle of the wharf – make the whole experience feel so much more atmospheric. Immerse yourself in the city’s rich maritime history and discover how New Amsterdam grew from a tiny Dutch colony to a global port. Step inside the 19th-century letterpress port, catch the latest curated exhibitions in the historic commercial buildings of Schermerhorn Row, and set sail for the fleet of heritage ships that are the jewels in the museum’s crown, among them the Lightship Ambrose, Schooner Pioneer and Tall Ship Wavertree.

I like to stick around for golden hour to catch the ships in (literally) their best light, and to take in some of the best sunset views of the Brooklyn Bridge you’re ever likely to find.

From the sea to the skies, continue your golden-hour adventure on the 100th floor of the Western Hemisphere’s loftiest building. I’m talking of course about the One World Trade Center – all 1,776 sky-piercing feet of it – and the One World Observatory, which sits a mere 1,268 feet above terra firma; cold comfort, of course, for all you acrophobics out there. But that moment when the sun goes down and the Manhattan skyline lights up – seen from way up here in the heavens – is well worth setting aside any altitude-related misgivings for. For, as well as the best views of the Brooklyn Bridge and Statue of Liberty of any observation deck in town, it also promises stellar Midtown vistas. Is that the Empire State Building over there? Why, yes it is! And the Chrysler? Governors Island? The George Washington Bridge? Yes, yes and yes again. Heck, on a clear day you can see for up to 45 miles, upstate New York, New Jersey and even parts of Connecticut.

We’re going to double back down to Pier 17 now, right next door to the historic ships you were ogling this afternoon, for dinner at one of NYC’s hottest seafood restaurants. Here at the Fulton by Jean-Georges (to give it its full Sunday name), floor-to-ceiling windows pair beaut nighttime views of the East River and Brooklyn Bridge with a seafood menu that reads like a love letter to the Atlantic. We’re talking perfectly chilled oysters, a warm octopus and mozzarella salad, delicately steamed black bass with umami citrus notes, and a Dover sole in brown butter with lemon and capers. The decor here is to dine for, too; all fantastical ocean-themed murals, maritime-inspired hanging lamps and plush pea-green banquette seating.

If you want to dial down the formality a little but still keep it fishy, nearby fish markets and oyster bars along the esplanade serve fresh, unfussy plates with the same breezy views. Save a little space for later; we’re going to head back into FiDi for a nightcap worth savoring.

For late drinks, slide into The Dead Rabbit on Water Street, a short way from Stone Street, and settle into its cozy, wood-paneled rooms. This is the classic NYC Irish bar done right, with the black stuff on tap (natch) and a just-the-right-side-of-sweet Irish coffee – Teeling small batch whiskey, coffee, demerara and whipped cream – that’s well worth skipping dessert for. The ever-changing seasonal cocktails list is also well worth delving into, assuming you’re not already horizontal by this point. Grab one last selfie under the Stone Street string lights and wander happily homewards, where marshmallow hotel pillows and sweet dreams of tomorrow’s NYC adventures surely await you.

There’s a hotel to fit nearly every budget in Lower Manhattan. Here are three of my favorites, from budget to bells-and-whistles.

• High-end: The Beekman, a Thompson Hotel. Ornate Italian-Renaissance facade, soaring nine-story atrium, moody hallways lined with art, and rooms that mix velvet, leather and warm woods. You’re steps from City Hall Park, with subway lines in all directions and a buzzy lobby bar that aces late-night cocktails.
• Mid-range: Gild Hall, a Thompson Hotel. Tucked on a quiet Gold Street corner, this boutique stay feels intimate and stylish without trying too hard. Rooms promise leather headboards, tartan accents and super-comfortable beds; the on-site Felice restaurant keeps Tuscan plates and a strong wine list handy.
• Budget: Hampton Inn Manhattan/Downtown–Financial District. Sure, the name’s something of a mouthful, but you can’t argue with the Pearl Street location, a stone’s throw from The Battery. Rooms are compact but neat, and you’ll save your dollars for way more important stuff. Like pizza and bagels.