It’s 8.30am. We’re jetlagged and sans-coffee. The New York subway map looks like a confusing crayon scribble, and we’ve randomly guessed the exit. We step out and the Empire State Building is the first thing we see that makes us stop and go wow. Out loud. Okay, now it feels like we’re in New York! And yes, we’ve made it to the right place.
We’re greeted by Renita Edmund, an observatory host who’s been welcoming visitors to the building for 26 years and has never lost her enthusiasm. We know it instantly – you can’t fake that huge smile and the tightest hug. Within minutes we feel like old friends, and she drops in tales from her long tenure as we explore one of NYC’s greats.
The day Buddy the Elf was on the naughty list
We’re whisked along an opulent Art Deco corridor that makes us feel fancy just for being there. Posters line the walls showcasing Empire’s starring role in classic films, from King Kong to Home Alone 2, tempting us to get straight into the gossip. ‘So, met any celebs? Seen any movies being filmed here?’
‘Well, I called security on Buddy the Elf,’ she casually replies. This is better than the Kardashian spot we were expecting.
‘Back when Elf was filmed, we didn’t know about movies being shot in other parts of the building. So, when Will Ferrell turned up at the lobby in his full Elf costume, I didn’t know what was going on, so I called security. When I realised my mistake, Will was so kind. He told me he’d never forget the day he almost got kicked out of the Empire State Building! We always like to make sure people’s visits are memorable,’ she adds cheekily.
"Buddy the Elf, what's your favorite lobby?"
Secrets below the skyline (and a basketball court)
The quest for gossip continues, but this time, aimed at the Empire. We want to hear some secrets – is there a hidden tunnel? A mysterious hideout? What does the building keep under wraps?
The answer is old-school finance with a court-side twist. Renita takes us 35 feet below ground to suss it all out, in an area not usually open to public*. Here we find a giant Gringotts-style, multi-ton door from an abondoned bank vault installed in the 1930s. It was apparently too heavy to remove from the building, so now sits in the middle of a very ordinary-looking storage facility.
Empire's secret vault giving big Wizarding World energy
Then, in stark contrast, we head to a more modern part of the Empire’s basement. 'We’re going to Club Level,' Renita announces with her trademark effervescent grin, making us think we’re about to join an underground rave. Nearly.
Club Level is a tenant-exclusive floor filled with tech entrepreneurs clutching bagels and, yes, an actual basketball court complete with fold-out bleachers for those who want to throw some hoops under an NYC icon. Not what we were expecting in the building’s basement.
Court-side in the Concrete Jungle
The moments that matter most
We make our way to the second-floor museum where Empire’s beginnings are brought to life. Giant images of daredevil workers using nothing but a belt as a harness – it’s the part of Empire’s history Renita finds most fascinating. She must talk through this almost every day. We ask what motivates her and what she loves about working here.
‘It’s the visitors. For some people, it’s their dream to come here,’ she gets emotional as she says this. ‘And I get to be a part of their experience. This isn't a job for me. It’s my heart, it’s my passion'.
It's clear that, as well as bringing smiles, connecting visitors with New York's history is important to her. 'I used to work down by the World Trade Centre and I remember it being built. And, years later, I was right here at the Empire State Building when I watched it go down. It's heart-wrenching, but that view of the south side is a reminder of our history'.
The south side of Manhattan
The view that sparks random requests
It's the bit we've been waiting for. We take an ear-popping journey up to the summit in a lift that blends Art Deco aesthetics with a catchy tune and atmospheric light effects. ‘Now, we’re going to the top of the world,’ says Renita with full Jack on the bow of the Titanic energy.
The skies are clear. The vibes are chill. And the view is spec-tac-u-lar. It's the perfect beginning to a trip – you can almost hear the opening credits rolling in on an NYC adventure (Empire State of Mind, obvs), punctuated just slightly by loud honking horns and sirens.
From the top indoor deck (102nd Floor Observatory) you get sweeping – and warmer – 360-degree views of just about everything in Manhattan. From the lower outdoor deck (86th Floor Observatory) you get the classic Empire experience with a stainless steel fence framing the views and the famous binoculars dotted around. The lower deck is included with your standard observatory ticket, while the top deck is an extra you can upgrade to.
That view!
As Renita talks through what we can see, we ask if there are any left-field requests from visitors. ‘Trump Tower,’ she says gesturing to a nondescript-looking skyscraper. Huh – it’s not as gold and obvious as we imagined. ‘And they also want to know where Sully landed the plane,’ she points to the left of the Hudson River, just behind Edge.
‘This is my favourite time of day to be here,’ she adds. ‘Because you can see everything. Sunset and night-time are beautiful, but you don’t know what you’re looking at.’
All of the important sights
The Empire strikes back
A prominent feature of the concrete jungle is of course the other skyscrapers and observation decks. Renita points them out – tiny speck-sized people on the decks, probably looking back at us.
‘Been to the other observation decks?’ we tentatively ask. She sees us coming.
‘Some of them. You know, they’re good, they’ve got the views. But they don’t have the history that we do.’
Or the hostess with the mostest, we think. Every bit a part of the observatory experience as the Empire itself.
"For some people, it's their dream to come here"
Quick fires for The Queen
She does have things to do and places to be, after all.
Fave movie based on the building: An Affair to Remember
Fave classic New York snack: Junior’s for the best cheesecake
Fave celeb-spot besides Buddy: David Beckham
Fave place to eat near the Empire: Koreatown
Fave free thing to do in New York: Walking across the Brooklyn Bridge
Recommendation (for first-timers): I always tell people to visit Ground Zero because 9/11 changed the world. You’ll understand New Yorkers better. We’re people who stick together when we’re needed the most.
Empire State Building, but make it fashion!
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*Experience Empire's behind-the-scenes sights for yourself on a Premium Tour – not included with a regular observatory ticket.